Ford Forums

Hey, my Ford just threw a P0299 code, and I’ve noticed it feels sluggish and lacks power. I’ve read this could be related to the turbocharger not building enough boost. What should I check first? Could it be a leak in the hoses or maybe something with the wastegate? I’m driving a 2015 Ford Fiesta ST, and I’m wondering if this could be a simple fix or if I’m looking at needing to replace the turbo.

I’ve got a Ford with a keyless entry system, and I need to reset the door code. I know I’ll need the factory code, but I’m not sure where to find it. Is it in the owner’s manual, or can I check the fuse box? Also, once I have the factory code, what’s the process for entering a new 5-digit code? What should I do if I’ve lost the factory code?

Hey all, I’ve got a random misfire (P0300) on my 2011 Ford Fusion, and it’s driving me crazy. The car seems to run fine most of the time, but every now and then, it’ll stumble and hesitate. I’ve replaced the spark plugs, but the code keeps coming back. Could this be an ignition coil issue, or should I be looking at the fuel system? Any advice would be much appreciated.

Hey everyone, I’ve got a P0303 code on my Ford, and from what I understand, it means there’s a misfire in cylinder 3. I’ve already checked the spark plug, but the code’s still there. Should I try swapping the ignition coil to see if the problem moves to another cylinder? If that doesn’t fix it, could it be a fuel injector issue or something more serious like low compression? Has anyone else dealt with this on their Ford? For reference, I’m driving a 2009 Ford Fusion. Any advice would be appreciated!

Hey guys, my Ford is throwing a P0304 code, which I know means a misfire in cylinder 4. The car's running rough, especially when I accelerate. I’ve already checked the spark plugs, and they seem fine, but I’m wondering if it could be the ignition coil or maybe something else like a fuel injector issue. Has anyone else dealt with this? Could it also be low compression in that cylinder? I’ve got a 2010 Ford Fusion, and when I had a similar issue before, it was a bad coil pack, but I want to make sure I’m not missing anything this time. Should I be checking for vacuum leaks too? Any advice would be great!

Hey everyone, I’ve got a P2195 code popping up on my Ford Edge, and it seems like the O2 sensor is reporting a lean condition. I know the sensor might be bad, but before I go replacing it, is there anything else I should check? I’ve heard it could also be caused by a vacuum leak or maybe a clogged fuel filter. Has anyone dealt with this code before? I cleaned the MAF sensor since I found it was pretty dirty, but the code’s still there. Should I just go ahead and replace the O2 sensor, or could it be something else like the fuel system? Would appreciate any advice!

Alright, folks, let’s talk about the infamous P1506 code on your Ford. If you’re dealing with this one, it means your engine idle control system is acting up, and your engine is probably idling too high. You might notice the car idles rough, revs higher than usual when you’re stopped, or feels a bit off when you’re coasting. I had this exact issue with my 2008 Ford Taurus, and after some troubleshooting, I was able to figure it out and fix it. Let me walk you through what worked for me and the steps you can take to get your Ford running smoothly again.

The P1506 code usually points to a problem with the idle air control (IAC) valve. The IAC valve is responsible for controlling the engine’s idle speed by regulating how much air bypasses the throttle plate when the throttle is closed. When it’s not working properly, the engine can end up idling too high or too low. In the case of P1506, your engine is idling too high, and the computer is flagging it because the idle speed is out of range. There are a few reasons this could be happening, so let’s break it down.

One of the most common causes of a high idle and the P1506 code is a vacuum leak. If there’s a leak anywhere in the vacuum system – whether it’s a cracked hose, a loose connection, or a faulty intake manifold gasket – extra air will get into the engine. This messes with the air-fuel ratio and causes the engine to idle higher than it should. To check for vacuum leaks, I suggest starting with a visual inspection of the hoses and connections around the intake manifold. Look for any obvious signs of wear or damage. If you don’t see anything right away, you can use a can of carb cleaner to help find the leak. Spray it around the intake manifold and vacuum lines while the engine is running. If the idle changes when you spray a certain spot, you’ve likely found your leak.

If the vacuum system checks out, the next thing to look at is the idle air control (IAC) valve itself. Over time, the IAC valve can get dirty, clogged, or just wear out. When this happens, it can’t control the air bypass properly, leading to a high idle. In my case with the Taurus, I took the IAC valve off and gave it a good cleaning with some throttle body cleaner. After that, I reinstalled it, cleared the code, and the high idle was gone. If cleaning the valve doesn’t help, you might need to replace it. A new IAC valve isn’t too expensive, and it’s usually a pretty easy DIY job. Just make sure to get the right part for your model, as they can vary depending on the year and engine type.

While you’re in there, it’s also worth checking out the throttle body. A dirty throttle body can cause a range of idle issues, including a high idle. Over time, carbon and gunk can build up around the throttle plate, preventing it from closing properly. When the throttle plate doesn’t close all the way, too much air gets into the engine, and the idle speed increases. To clean the throttle body, you’ll need some throttle body cleaner and a soft cloth or brush. Remove the intake hose, spray the cleaner on the throttle plate and surrounding area, and gently scrub away the buildup. Once it’s clean, put everything back together and see if that helps with the idle issue.

If you’ve checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned or replaced the IAC valve, and cleaned the throttle body, but the P1506 code is still hanging around, there are a few other things to consider. It’s possible that the engine control module (ECM) could be malfunctioning, but this is much less common. Before you jump to conclusions and start replacing the ECM, make sure you’ve ruled out all the simpler causes. Another thing to check is the throttle position sensor (TPS). If the TPS is giving the wrong readings to the ECM, it could cause the engine to idle too high. You can test the TPS with a multimeter to see if it’s within the proper range.

In my experience, most of the time, the P1506 code is caused by a dirty or faulty IAC valve or a vacuum leak, so those are the first places I’d start. In my Taurus, replacing the IAC valve completely resolved the issue, and the car idled perfectly after that. The job took me about an hour, and the new valve was under $50, so it’s definitely worth a shot before heading to a mechanic.

Got the dreaded P0301 code on my 2013 Ford Focus, which points to a misfire in cylinder 1. The engine runs rough, especially at idle, and there’s definitely a loss of power. I’ve already replaced the spark plugs, but the code came back. Should I check the ignition coil next, or could it be something else like a fuel injector? I’m not too experienced with car repairs, but I’m hoping to fix this myself before taking it to a mechanic. Any advice would be great!

B1342 code on my 2011 Ford Fusion popped up, and from what I’ve found, it’s related to a failure in the control module (ECM or ABS module). My ABS light is on, but the car drives just fine. Should I be worried about this? Is it safe to drive, or am I looking at a huge repair bill? Anyone else dealt with this before? Let me know what you did to fix it.

My 2016 Ford F150 just threw a P054A code, and I’m scratching my head. From what I’ve gathered, it’s something to do with the camshaft timing being retarded on startup. The truck runs fine most of the time, but I’ve noticed a bit of rough idling when I first start it up, especially in the mornings. Anyone know what could be causing this? Is it a timing issue, or could it be something like the VVT solenoid acting up? Would appreciate any insights or advice on how to fix it.