Ford Forums

So, my Escape’s wireless charger decided to take a vacation. I put my phone on it, and… nada. No charging, no lights, just nothing. Anyone else run into this issue? Is there something obvious I’m missing, or did my wireless charging just give up on life? Any tips or tricks would be appreciated.

For the 2.0 EcoBoost, you’ll want to go with either OEM plugs or a high-quality aftermarket brand like NGK or Bosch. Platinum or iridium plugs tend to work better if you’re looking for longevity and performance. If you’re doing a DIY replacement, make sure to gap the plugs correctly – usually 0.030 to 0.035 inches for the EcoBoost. Spark plugs might seem small, but trust me, they make a big difference. And hey, you’ll thank yourself for upgrading them!

Anyone else dealing with rough idle when it's cold? My Escape starts acting weird when it’s chilly out, especially on cold mornings. It shakes like it’s had one too many espressos. Any idea what’s causing this? Could it be spark plugs, or is it something else? Trying to avoid a trip to the mechanic if I can.

Bending terminal pins is way too easy when you're trying to fix things under the hood.  It’s like you’re doing everything right, and suddenly, oops, a little too much pressure, and now the pins are looking like spaghetti. If you’ve accidentally bent a pin while working on your Ford Escape, don’t panic. Seriously, this happens more often than you’d think.

First things first, grab a tiny flathead screwdriver or some needle-nose pliers – those are your best friends in this situation. Gently bend the pins back into place, but make sure to go slow! I can’t stress this enough, if you rush, there’s a good chance the pin could snap, and then you’ve got a whole new problem on your hands.

If the pins are super bent or damaged beyond a quick fix, consider using a terminal pin repair kit. They’re surprisingly affordable and can save you from bigger headaches down the road. You might even find the kit comes in handy for future projects. And hey, better safe than sorry when it comes to wiring! You really don’t want to mess around with electrical stuff – one wrong move, and you could end up chasing gremlins in your electrical system for months. Plus, good wiring is essential for things like sensors and safety features to work properly.

Hey, I’m trying to replace the brake light on my 2015 Escape and saw both 3457 and 3157 bulbs mentioned. What’s the difference between these two? Can I just grab whichever is cheaper, or does it matter? Anyone tried both? Appreciate the help before I buy the wrong one!

Hey guys, my Ford just threw the B1681 code, and from what I’ve gathered, it’s related to the PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) transceiver module. The car’s not recognizing my key properly, and it won’t start. I recently had a new key made, so I’m wondering if the transponder wasn’t programmed correctly, or could there be something wrong with the transceiver module itself?

I’m also worried about possible wiring issues between the transceiver and the ECU. Has anyone else dealt with this code? Should I try reprogramming the key first or look into replacing the module? If anyone has had a similar experience or knows how to troubleshoot this, I’d really appreciate the advice.

Hey guys, my 2012 Ford Explorer is giving me the PO128 code. From what I understand, it’s related to the coolant thermostat, but the car’s not overheating or anything. I’ve noticed the temperature gauge doesn’t reach the middle sometimes. Should I replace the thermostat, or could it be a sensor issue? Appreciate any advice

Hey everyone, I’ve got a 2016 Ford Focus, and I’m seeing the P287A code pop up on my OBD scanner. The car’s been having a rough time shifting gears lately, and I’ve noticed some strange noises when it tries to shift—especially during lower gears. After some research, it seems like this code points to a clutch motor issue with the dual-clutch transmission (DCT).

Has anyone else dealt with this code? I’ve heard it could be the clutch actuator that’s stuck or malfunctioning. Should I check the actuator first, or could this be a sign of wear on the clutch itself? My Focus has quite a few miles on it, so I’m wondering if this might mean a bigger repair. Also, do I need to scan for other transmission-related codes that might be hiding in there?

I’ve also read that resetting the Transmission Control Module (TCM) might help, but I’m not sure how to go about that. Any advice on how to troubleshoot this or if it’s something I could fix myself would be awesome! Thanks!

So, my Ford Escape has been acting up, and I got the PO743 code—Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) circuit problem. The transmission’s been shifting a little rough lately, and sometimes I feel a jerk when accelerating. Has anyone else had this issue? Should I start by checking the wiring or is it likely the torque converter? Any advice would be great before I hit the garage.

Alright, if you’re dealing with the U3003 code on your Ford, this one’s related to a low voltage issue in the power supply. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you troubleshoot it:

Check the battery - Start by checking the battery voltage. A weak or dying battery is often the culprit. Use a multimeter to ensure it’s above 12.4V when the car’s off and around 14V when running.
Look at the alternator - If the battery checks out, it could be an alternator issue. Make sure it’s charging the battery properly.
Inspect wiring - Sometimes, loose or corroded connections can cause low voltage. Check the battery terminals, ground connections, and the wiring around the fuse box.
Fuse box issues - The U3003 code can also be thrown if there’s a problem with the fuse box, like a blown fuse or a poor connection.

Once you go through these checks, clear the code and see if it comes back. If it does, you might have a more serious electrical problem, and you may need to consult a professional. But most of the time, it’s just a weak battery or a loose connection!