Ford Forums

The P0354 code on your Ford is indicating an ignition coil issue on cylinder 4. I ran into this problem on my 2012 Ford Escape, and the car was misfiring pretty badly, especially when accelerating. Here’s how I fixed it.

The first step is to inspect the ignition coil on cylinder 4. You’ll want to look for any obvious signs of damage like cracks or burns. Ignition coils can wear out over time, and when they do, the cylinder won’t get the spark it needs, causing the engine to misfire. If the coil looks damaged, you’ll need to replace it.

If the coil seems fine, try swapping it with another cylinder’s coil. If the code moves to the new cylinder, you’ve confirmed that the coil is faulty and needs to be replaced. If the code doesn’t move, the issue may lie elsewhere, such as in the spark plug or wiring harness.

When replacing the ignition coil, make sure the spark plug is in good condition as well. A bad spark plug can also cause misfires, so it’s worth replacing both the plug and the coil at the same time if needed.

The P1832 code on your Ford indicates an issue with the transfer case differential lock-up solenoid circuit, which is crucial for distributing power between the front and rear wheels. I’ve had this issue on my 2013 Ford Edge, and it caused some strange handling problems, especially when making turns. If you’ve been noticing a similar issue, the P1832 code is likely the culprit.

First, the transfer case is responsible for managing the torque between the front and rear axles. When the solenoid or the circuit that controls the differential lock-up malfunctions, you might experience handling issues or even feel like the car is dragging while turning.

The first thing to check is the wiring around the transfer case. Inspect the connectors for corrosion or loose connections, as these can often be the cause. Clean or secure the wiring if necessary. If the wiring seems fine, the next step is to test the solenoid itself using a multimeter to check for continuity. If the solenoid isn’t functioning properly, it will need to be replaced.

In some cases, the issue might stem from a faulty transfer case control module, which is responsible for controlling the solenoid. If you’ve exhausted the wiring and solenoid checks, you may need to test or replace the control module.

Once you’ve made the necessary repairs, clear the code with an OBD-II scanner and test drive the car to ensure the handling issues have been resolved. If the code returns, you might need to take a deeper look into the transfer case’s mechanical components or seek professional assistance.

Hi all, my 2013 Ford F150 has been misfiring right after I start it up, and I’m getting the P0316 code on my scanner. The misfire seems to go away after a minute or two, but it’s definitely worrying. I’ve checked the spark plugs, and they look okay. Could this be an ignition coil issue or maybe something with the fuel injectors? I’m not sure where to start troubleshooting, so any advice would be great! Thanks in advance!

Hey everyone, I’ve got a B1318 code on my 2012 Ford Fiesta, and from what I’ve read, it’s saying there’s low battery voltage. I’ve noticed the car’s been struggling to start, especially on cold mornings, and the headlights seem dimmer than usual. I’m guessing the battery’s on its last legs, but before I go out and buy a new one, is there anything else I should check? Could it be an alternator issue or just bad battery connections? Any advice would be super helpful. Thanks!

The P0316 code on your Ford indicates that there’s a misfire detected during the first 1,000 revolutions after starting the engine. I had this problem on my 2014 Ford Explorer, and it turned out to be related to a combination of ignition and fuel issues. When this code appears, you’ll often experience a rough idle right after starting the car, and the engine may stumble before smoothing out.

To troubleshoot, start by checking the spark plugs and ignition coils. Misfires are often caused by worn or damaged plugs, so replacing them is a good first step. While you’re at it, inspect the ignition coils for signs of wear or damage, and replace them if necessary. If the plugs and coils are fine, the issue could be related to the fuel injectors. A clogged or malfunctioning injector can cause the cylinder to misfire on startup, so you may need to clean or replace the injectors.

Another possibility is that there’s a vacuum leak or an issue with the mass airflow sensor, which can cause an incorrect air-fuel mixture and lead to misfires. Use a smoke machine to check for vacuum leaks, and clean or replace the MAF sensor if needed.

After you’ve addressed these issues, clear the code with an OBD-II scanner and see if it returns. If the code persists, you may need to take a closer look at the crankshaft position sensor or engine compression, as these could also cause misfires during startup.

Hey all, I’ve got a 2017 Ford Fusion that’s throwing the P1450 code, which says it can’t bleed the tank vacuum. The car seems to be running okay, but I’ve noticed it struggles a bit after filling up at the gas station. I’ve read this could be an issue with the EVAP system or the fuel tank pressure sensor. Has anyone else dealt with this before? Is it a simple fix, or am I looking at something more complicated? Any advice on how to troubleshoot or fix this would be great. Thanks in advance!

Hey, I’m seeing both P0171 and P0174 codes on my 2015 Ford Mustang, which apparently means the engine is running lean on both banks. I’ve noticed a lack of power, and the car hesitates when I accelerate. Could this be a vacuum leak, or maybe a problem with the mass airflow sensor? I don’t want to start replacing parts without knowing what’s wrong. Anyone else dealt with this? I’d appreciate any advice or tips on how to troubleshoot before I start spending money on unnecessary repairs!

If you’re getting the P04F0 code on your Ford, you’re likely dealing with an issue related to the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve. I ran into this with my 2011 Ford Escape, and it caused the engine to run rough, especially at low RPMs, and I had a noticeable drop in fuel efficiency. The EGR valve’s job is to recirculate a portion of the exhaust gases back into the intake manifold to reduce nitrogen oxide emissions. When it’s not working properly, it can lead to poor engine performance, knocking, or rough idling.

To troubleshoot this, start by checking the EGR valve for any visible signs of carbon buildup, which can prevent it from closing properly. Cleaning the valve with carb cleaner might resolve the issue. If that doesn’t work, you might need to replace the valve entirely. Also, check the vacuum hoses connected to the EGR system for any leaks or cracks, as this could also cause the P04F0 code to appear. Once you’ve addressed these issues, clear the code with an OBD-II scanner and test the car to see if the code comes back. If it does, you might have a deeper issue, like a clogged EGR passage.

Hey guys, I’m seeing a P0354 code on my 2010 Ford Fusion, and from what I’ve read, it’s related to an ignition coil issue on cylinder 4. The car’s been misfiring when I accelerate, and I’m noticing a rough idle as well. I’ve replaced the spark plugs not too long ago, so I’m guessing it’s the coil itself. Should I swap the coil to see if the problem follows, or just go ahead and replace it? I’m hoping to fix this myself, but I’m no expert. Any tips would be awesome!

So, my 2014 Ford Focus has been acting up with the keyless entry system. Sometimes, the fob works fine, and other times it’s like I’m locked out of my own car. When I scanned it, I got the B10F1 code, which I think has to do with the keyless entry module. Anyone else experience this? Is this something I can fix myself, or do I have to replace the entire module? It’s so annoying when you’re standing in the rain and your car won’t unlock. Thanks in advance for any help!