Ford Forums

Hey all, I’ve got a 2012 Ford Edge that’s been handling really weird lately, especially when I’m making turns. I hooked it up to the OBD reader, and it threw the P1832 code. From what I can tell, it’s got something to do with the transfer case differential lock-up solenoid circuit, but I’m not really sure what that means or how to fix it. Has anyone else dealt with this? Could it be something simple like a sensor or connection issue, or am I looking at a bigger (and more expensive) problem? I’m really hoping to avoid taking it to the dealership. Appreciate any advice!

If you’re seeing a P0136 code on your Ford, it typically points to an issue with the O2 sensor circuit on bank 1, sensor 2, which is the downstream oxygen sensor located after the catalytic converter. This sensor monitors the efficiency of the converter by comparing the oxygen levels in the exhaust gases. When the code appears, it’s often a sign that the sensor isn’t providing accurate readings or there’s an issue with the circuit itself.

The first thing you want to do is inspect the sensor and the wiring. Check for any signs of damage like frayed wires, corrosion on the connectors, or anything that looks off. Sometimes, the sensor can be covered in soot or debris, which causes inaccurate readings. If that’s the case, cleaning or replacing the sensor should do the trick.

Next, you’ll want to check the voltage with a multimeter to ensure the sensor is getting proper power. If there’s no power or the readings are erratic, you might have an issue with the wiring harness or a blown fuse. In this case, repairing the wiring or replacing the fuse could resolve the issue. After making repairs, clear the code using an OBD-II scanner, and see if the code returns. If it does, the sensor itself may need to be replaced.

Hey all, I’m seeing the P0305 code on my Ford Escape, which indicates a misfire in cylinder 5. The engine’s been running really rough, especially at idle, and there’s a noticeable drop in power. I’ve already checked the spark plugs, and they seem fine, so I’m wondering if the issue could be with the ignition coil or fuel injector. Has anyone else run into this problem? What ended up being the cause in your case? I’m hoping to fix it myself, so any tips or suggestions would be appreciated!

Hey, I’ve got a P430 code on my 2012 Ford Edge, which I understand points to a catalytic converter efficiency problem on bank 2. I haven’t noticed any major performance issues, but my fuel economy has taken a slight hit, and the check engine light has been on for a while. I’ve read that this could mean the catalytic converter needs replacing, but I’m hoping it’s something less expensive like an O2 sensor. Has anyone dealt with this code? Should I try replacing the sensor first, or am I looking at a costly converter replacement? Any advice or experiences would be super helpful!

Hey guys, my 2013 Ford Explorer has been throwing the P0354 code, and from what I’ve gathered, it’s an ignition coil issue on cylinder 4. The engine’s been running rough, especially when accelerating, and I’ve noticed a significant drop in power. I’ve checked the spark plugs, and they seem okay, so I’m guessing it’s the coil that’s shot. Has anyone else dealt with this? I’m wondering if it’s worth swapping the coil with another one to see if the code follows, or should I just replace it outright? Any advice on how to handle this without taking it to the shop? Appreciate any help!

Hey all, my 2009 Ford F150 has been throwing the P1131 code for a while now. From what I understand, it’s got something to do with the oxygen sensor reading too lean on bank 1. I’ve already checked for vacuum leaks, but I didn’t find anything. Should I go ahead and replace the O2 sensor, or could it be something else? The truck’s been running a bit rough, and the fuel mileage isn’t great. Any advice is appreciated!

If your Ford is showing the P0113 code, it means your intake air temperature (IAT) sensor is reading a value that’s too high. I dealt with this on my Ford Fusion, and here’s what happened. The IAT sensor monitors the temperature of the air coming into the engine, and when it starts reading too high, it throws off the air-fuel mixture, causing poor performance and bad fuel economy.

To fix this, first, check the sensor itself. It’s usually located in or near the air intake system, and it might just be dirty or have a loose connection. If the sensor’s dirty, clean it with some sensor-safe cleaner. If it’s damaged or not reading correctly, you’ll need to replace it. Once the sensor is sorted, reset the code, and your car should be running smoothly again.

Hey all, my Ford Ranger’s throwing a P0353 code, and I think it’s an ignition coil problem on cylinder 3. The truck’s been misfiring, especially when I’m on the highway or accelerating hard. I checked the spark plugs and wires, and they seem fine, so I’m guessing the coil is shot. Should I just replace the coil, or is there something else I should check before I do? Would love to hear from anyone who’s dealt with this before. Thanks!

If your Ford’s throwing a P2196 code, you’re dealing with an O2 sensor that’s stuck reporting a rich condition. This happened to my Ford F-150, and it caused the engine to run rough and waste more fuel than usual. The rich condition means the engine’s getting too much fuel and not enough air, which usually points to an O2 sensor issue or, in some cases, a fuel system problem.

To start, you’ll want to check the upstream O2 sensor (the one before the catalytic converter) to see if it’s faulty. You can test it with an OBD scanner or a multimeter if you’re comfortable with that. If the sensor’s dead, replacing it should fix the problem. However, if the sensor seems fine, you might have a fuel pressure issue, like a stuck fuel injector, causing the system to run rich.

After replacing the sensor or fixing any fuel system issues, make sure to clear the code with an OBD scanner. If you’re lucky, the P2196 code should be gone, and your fuel economy should improve.

Hello all, I’m dealing with a B10F1 code on my 2015 Ford Focus, and from what I’ve found, it’s related to the keyless entry system. Lately, my key fob hasn’t been working properly, and the car occasionally refuses to start unless I use the physical key. I’m guessing it could be the keyless entry module, but before I go replacing parts, I wanted to see if anyone has had a similar issue. Is this something I can fix myself, or should I just take it in? Thanks!