Ford Forums

Hello all, I’m dealing with a B10F1 code on my 2015 Ford Focus, and from what I’ve found, it’s related to the keyless entry system. Lately, my key fob hasn’t been working properly, and the car occasionally refuses to start unless I use the physical key. I’m guessing it could be the keyless entry module, but before I go replacing parts, I wanted to see if anyone has had a similar issue. Is this something I can fix myself, or should I just take it in? Thanks!

Hey guys, I’ve got a P1832 code on my Ford Edge, and I’m trying to figure out what’s going on. The code says it’s related to the transfer case differential lock-up solenoid circuit, but to be honest, I’m not 100% sure how to troubleshoot it. The car’s been handling kinda weird lately, especially when I make turns. It feels like something’s dragging or maybe binding up in the drivetrain, and I’m starting to get worried it could turn into something serious if I don’t deal with it soon.

I’m hoping to avoid taking it to the dealer if I can, since that’s always expensive, but I’m not sure where to start with diagnosing this myself. I’ve read that the transfer case in Ford AWD systems is responsible for distributing power between the front and rear wheels, and if the solenoid isn’t working right, it could mess up how the power is sent. I’ve also heard the solenoid is part of the control system that engages and disengages the differential lock, which helps with traction when needed. If that’s acting up, maybe that’s what’s causing the weird handling.

Has anyone else dealt with this code or a similar problem? I’m wondering if it could be something simple like a loose connection or a bad sensor, or if I’m looking at having to replace the solenoid or even the entire transfer case. Any ideas on what to check first? I’m thinking I could start by inspecting the wiring around the transfer case for any obvious damage or corrosion. Maybe it’s just a bad connection somewhere. But if it’s something more complicated, I might be out of my depth.

Also, if I do end up needing to replace the solenoid, does anyone know how tough that job is? I’ve done some basic repairs before, but I’m not super experienced when it comes to drivetrain stuff. I’m hoping this is something I can handle in my garage with basic tools, but if it’s a big job, I might have to call in some help.

Anyway, if anyone has run into the P1832 code before or knows how to troubleshoot transfer case issues, I’d really appreciate any advice or tips. Thanks in advance!

If you’re getting the P1703 code on your Ford, you’re probably dealing with a brake switch malfunction. I ran into this issue with my Ford Escape, and it was causing some oddities with the cruise control and brake lights. The brake switch is a small but important component located near the brake pedal. When it fails, the system doesn’t get the signal that you’re pressing the brake, which messes up functions like cruise control and, in some cases, gear shifting.

The fix is usually pretty straightforward. First, you’ll need to check if the brake switch is functioning properly. This can be done by observing if your brake lights come on when you press the pedal. If they don’t, it’s likely that the switch is faulty and needs replacing. Replacing the brake switch is simple, and all you need is a new switch and a few basic tools. It’s located right behind the brake pedal, and swapping it out should take you about 10-15 minutes. After replacing it, clear the error code, and everything should be back to normal.

Hey everyone, I’ve got a 2011 Ford Explorer, and I keep seeing the P0442 code pop up. From what I’ve gathered, it means there’s a small leak in the EVAP system. The thing is, I haven’t noticed any major issues with how the car runs, but I’d rather get this sorted before it turns into something bigger. Could this be something simple like a loose gas cap, or am I looking at a more involved fix? Would love to hear if anyone’s had this problem and how you fixed it.

So my Focus threw the P0113 code, which I guess means the intake air temp sensor’s reading too high. I’m wondering if it’s the sensor itself or if maybe something’s blocking the airflow. Anyone have experience with this? Is it just a sensor swap, or could there be more to it?

If you’re seeing the P0352 code on your Ford, it usually points to an ignition coil issue on cylinder 2. I’ve had this problem on my Mustang, and here’s what I did to fix it. When this code appears, you’ll likely notice engine misfires, especially during acceleration. You might even experience a rough idle or reduced power, making the car feel sluggish.

This code typically shows up because the ignition coil on cylinder 2 is malfunctioning. Ford’s ignition systems can sometimes be tricky, and when a coil goes bad, it means that the cylinder isn’t receiving the necessary spark to function properly.

To fix this, start by inspecting the ignition coil on cylinder 2. Look for any visible cracks or burn marks on the coil, as these are strong indicators that it’s faulty. If you’re still unsure, you can swap the coil with another one from a different cylinder. If the error code moves to the new cylinder, you’ve confirmed that the coil is the problem.

Once you’re sure the coil is bad, replace it with a new one. It’s a fairly simple job, even if you’re not very experienced with car repairs. After installing the new coil, you’ll need to reset the OBD system to clear the code. Once that’s done, the car should run smoothly again, and the P0352 code should no longer appear.

Ever wonder what all those numbers in your VIN actually mean? You’re not alone. Whether you’re trying to check the vehicle history or just geek out over your car's origin, decoding your Ford VIN is easy!

Every Ford vehicle comes with a unique 17-digit VIN code. Knowing how to read it helps you figure out where your car was made, its engine type, and other cool stuff.

Solution:

1. First Character: This shows the country where your Ford was built. For example, “1” = USA.
   
2. Second and Third Characters: Manufacturer – should be “F” for Ford.
   
3. Fourth to Eighth Characters: These indicate the car’s body style, engine type, etc.
   
4. Ninth Character: A security check digit.
   
5. Tenth Character: The model year – e.g., “J” = 2018.
   
6. Eleventh Character: The assembly plant where the vehicle was made.
   
7. Last Six Characters: The production number, unique to your car.
   

Sup, car folks. So I’ve got this P1504 code on my Ford Explorer, and the idle’s been all over the place. It’ll rev up by itself when I’m stopped at a light. Could this be an IAC valve issue? I’m not super familiar with this, but I’m trying to avoid an expensive trip to the mechanic. Any DIY tips to fix this? Thanks in advance!

Hey, I’ve been getting the P0402 code on my Ford Taurus for the last couple of weeks, and the car's been idling kinda rough. I googled around and found out it’s something about the EGR valve. Has anyone else had this? Is it something I can fix at home, or should I just bite the bullet and take it to the shop? I’m trying to avoid paying $$$ if I can.

Yo, I’ve been dealing with this P0403 code on my Ford Escape, and I think it's something to do with the EGR valve. My ride’s been running kinda rough, especially when idling. I’m not exactly a pro with this stuff, but I don’t wanna fork over cash for a mechanic if I can fix it myself. What’s the best way to troubleshoot this? Do I need to replace the EGR valve, or is there a cheaper fix? Help!