Ford Forums

So, this warning light (exclamation point) popped up on my dash, and I’m kind of freaking out. Steering feels fine, but I know it’s usually a warning for something serious. Should I take it in right away, or is it safe to drive?

Hey folks, I’ve been dealing with a pretty annoying issue on my Ford Fusion. Every time I hit the gas, especially when accelerating from a stop, I hear this nasty grinding noise coming from the front of the car. It’s not a constant sound, but it definitely gets worse when I press on the gas. At first, I thought it might be the brakes, but I checked them, and they seem fine. No squeaking or obvious wear, so I don’t think that’s the culprit.

Could it be the transmission or maybe something with the CV joints? I’ve read that a bad wheel bearing or worn-out CV axle could cause a grinding noise, but I’m no mechanic, so I’m not really sure. The sound seems to be getting louder, and honestly, it’s kind of embarrassing when I’m driving around town—feels like everyone’s staring at me like I’m driving a rusty old clunker. 😅

Has anyone else experienced something like this? If so, what was the fix? I’m hoping it’s not the transmission because that sounds expensive. Should I take it in for a diagnostic or try to troubleshoot some things myself first? Any advice would be appreciated!

Hey everyone, just got quoted $150 for a fuel induction service. Is that about right for a Fusion, or are they ripping me off? I’ve heard it can be cheaper, but maybe not for my year (2015). What did you all pay?

So, my Fusion starts shaking like crazy whenever I hit 70 mph or higher. It's completely fine at lower speeds, but as soon as I get on the highway and hit that 70-75 mph range, it’s like the whole car starts to wobble. Honestly, it feels like I’m driving on a roller coaster instead of a smooth road! 😂 I’ve heard it could be a problem with the tires being unbalanced or maybe the alignment is off. But could it be something more serious like the suspension or wheel bearings?

I’m hoping it’s just the tires since that seems like an easier fix, but I’m not exactly sure how to tell. Has anyone else had this issue with their Fusion? If so, what was the problem and how did you fix it? Should I take it to a mechanic or try to check the basics myself first?

Also, do you think it’s safe to keep driving like this, or should I avoid highway speeds until I figure it out?

This happened to me last week—couldn’t get the key out no matter what! Turned out my Fusion wasn’t fully in park. 🤦‍♂️ It’s a super simple fix, but if it keeps happening, it could be an issue with the ignition switch. Anyone else had this?

Anyone have recommendations for the quietest tires for a Ford Fusion? I mostly drive on the highway, and my current tires are LOUD! It's driving me nuts, especially on long trips. Any ideas that don’t cost an arm and a leg?

The P0316 code on your Ford means the engine has detected a misfire within the first 1,000 revolutions of startup. I had this problem on my 2014 Ford F-150, and it was causing the engine to run rough for the first minute or so before smoothing out. This issue is usually related to ignition or fuel delivery problems.

Start by checking the spark plugs. Worn or fouled plugs are a common cause of misfires, especially during startup when the engine is cold. If the plugs look dirty or damaged, replace them with new ones. While you’re at it, inspect the ignition coils for signs of wear. If one of the coils is failing, it can cause a misfire.

If the ignition system seems fine, move on to the fuel injectors. A clogged or malfunctioning fuel injector can cause the engine to misfire when starting. Cleaning the injectors or replacing a faulty injector should fix the problem. It’s also worth checking the fuel pressure to make sure the fuel pump is delivering the right amount of fuel to the engine.

Finally, inspect for vacuum leaks or a faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, as these can also cause a misfire on startup by disrupting the air-fuel mixture. Use a smoke test to find leaks and clean or replace the MAF sensor if needed.

Once you’ve made the necessary repairs, clear the P0316 code using an OBD-II scanner and test the vehicle to ensure the misfire has been resolved. If the code comes back, you may need to perform further diagnostics, but in most cases, addressing the spark plugs, coils, and fuel injectors will fix the issue.

The P1450 code on your Ford Fusion indicates that the system is unable to bleed off the vacuum in the fuel tank. I had this issue on my 2017 Ford Fusion, and while the car still ran fine, it would hesitate after refueling. This issue is often linked to the EVAP (Evaporative Emission Control) system, which manages fuel vapors to reduce emissions.

First, inspect the EVAP purge valve, which is located near the engine. This valve is responsible for controlling the flow of fuel vapors from the fuel tank to the intake manifold. A stuck or faulty purge valve can cause excessive vacuum in the fuel tank. If you find that the valve is stuck closed or open, replacing it should resolve the problem.

Next, check the fuel tank pressure sensor. This sensor monitors the pressure inside the fuel tank and can trigger the P1450 code if it’s not reading correctly. If the sensor is damaged or faulty, you’ll need to replace it.

You should also inspect the EVAP hoses and charcoal canister for any signs of damage, blockages, or leaks. A clogged canister or damaged hose can also prevent the system from relieving the tank vacuum properly. If everything looks good, test the fuel tank vent valve to ensure it’s functioning correctly.

Once the necessary repairs are made, clear the P1450 code with an OBD-II scanner and test the car to ensure the issue is resolved. If the code doesn’t return, you’ve successfully fixed the vacuum problem. If it persists, you may need to check the fuel filler neck for blockages or other issues that could affect tank pressure.

If you’re seeing both the P0171 and P0174 codes on your Ford, it means that the engine is running lean on both banks (too much air and not enough fuel). I’ve had this problem on my 2015 Ford Mustang, and it led to sluggish performance, hesitation during acceleration, and poor fuel economy. These codes are usually caused by either a vacuum leak, a problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, or a fuel delivery issue.

The first thing to check is for vacuum leaks. These can occur anywhere in the intake system, including hoses, the intake manifold, or the throttle body. You can use a smoke machine or carb cleaner to find leaks—spray around the intake and hoses, and if the engine speed changes, you’ve found your leak. Replace any damaged hoses or seals to resolve the issue.

Next, inspect the MAF sensor. This sensor measures the amount of air entering the engine and helps the computer adjust the air-fuel mixture. A dirty or faulty MAF sensor can cause the engine to run lean. If the sensor is dirty, clean it using MAF sensor cleaner. If it’s damaged, you’ll need to replace it.

Lastly, check the fuel system. A clogged fuel filter or failing fuel pump can restrict fuel delivery and cause lean conditions on both banks. Replacing the fuel filter or testing the fuel pump’s pressure can help identify if the fuel system is the cause.

After making these repairs, clear the codes with an OBD-II scanner and test the car. If the codes don’t return, you’ve fixed the problem. In most cases, cleaning or replacing the MAF sensor and addressing vacuum leaks will resolve the P0171 and P0174 codes.

If you're seeing a P04F0 code on your Ford, you're likely dealing with an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve problem. I ran into this on my 2011 Ford Escape, and it caused the engine to run rough and the fuel efficiency to drop. The EGR system helps reduce emissions by recirculating a portion of the exhaust gases back into the engine’s intake manifold. When the system isn’t functioning correctly, it can cause poor engine performance, increased emissions, and rough idling.

The first step in troubleshooting this code is to inspect the EGR valve itself. Carbon buildup is a common issue that prevents the valve from fully closing, which can lead to performance issues. Remove the valve and clean it thoroughly using a carb cleaner. If it’s heavily clogged or damaged, replacing it is a better option than cleaning.

Next, check the vacuum hoses connected to the EGR valve. A cracked or leaking hose could also cause the system to malfunction. Make sure all hoses are secure and in good condition. If the vacuum system checks out, inspect the EGR control solenoid. This part helps manage the flow of exhaust gases, and if it’s malfunctioning, it can cause the P04F0 code to appear.

Finally, clear the code using an OBD-II scanner and take the car for a test drive. If the issue persists, it may point to a problem deeper in the EGR system, such as clogged passages in the intake manifold. If that’s the case, further cleaning or replacement may be needed. In most cases, cleaning or replacing the EGR valve and checking the associated vacuum hoses will resolve the problem.